Oh, The Places We’ve Gone

I haven’t had much time to write over the last few weeks because I was wrapping up my semester abroad and then travelling with my best friend for a couple weeks before returning home. I’ve been home for just over a week now and it’s been a busy week full of seeing friends and family, enjoying being home, and trying to remember that the past four months was more than an amazing dream. Now I’m preparing to repack over the next two days to go back to school in Pennsylvania.

*Warning: This is a long one.

See You Later, Budapest

Saying goodbye to Budapest and all of the great people I’d met there was bittersweet. I was ready to go home and see my family and my home again but it was hard to know that such an incredible adventure was coming to an end.

Statue on the CIEE webpage that we only found the last weekend there

When I wasn’t studying, I spent my last couple weeks getting around the city as much as I could to see my favorite places one last time and to see new places I hadn’t gotten around to sooner. And Christmas shopping. So much Christmas shopping. My roommate and I kept each other sane as best we could while shopping that last weekend.

CIEE threw us a farewell dinner on our last Friday evening that included traditional Hungarian food like goulash soup, chicken paprikash, and somlói galuska for dessert. When we had finished, we hugged our program advisors and professors goodbye. One of our advisors, Juci, refused to say goodbye and insisted on saying, “See you later.”

Packing took several hours and a whole lot of hope. It was extra challenging for me because I had to pack for two and a half weeks of travel (carry-on only style) in addition to the two checked bags I needed to get from Budapest to London and then to Boston at the end.

As difficult as it was to leave my temporary home, I was thrilled to travel with my best friend before going home. It was especially nice to have that intermittent period between homework and home that allowed us to relax while also seeing so much.

A Grand European Adventure

I flew to London from Budapest on December 20, while most of the people I had spent the last several months with began their journey home. I met my best friend there and we had about 24 hours until our next flight that would begin our Grand Adventure, so we didn’t do much that night.

In the morning we got our large bags into storage and made our way to our first destination: Pompeii, Italy. We landed in Naples without much of a plan, which is very unlike me. We had a hostel booked and only vague directions for how to get there.

After a lot of confusion and several odd interactions, we eventually got a bus to Pompeii and found our hostel thanks to the help of some extremely kind locals who spoke no English. We were the only ones in the hostel and it was positively freezing, but our host, the owner’s father who spoke almost no English, was very kind and made most of our meals during our stay.

Our one full day in Pompeii was immersed in the ancient city’s history. We began with a trip up Mount Vesuvius where we had the most incredible views of the Amalfi coast through the fog. We could also see some of the steam coming from inside the crater since it is still an active volcano. My friend was least enthused by the fact that it is said to have a 20-year cycle but hasn’t erupted since 1944, making it beyond due for another eruption.

Stunning view from the top of Mt. Vesuvius

Later we walked around the ancient city and covered the major areas that we wanted to see including the forum and the amphitheater (where they house devastating plasters of some of the victims). It was fascinating to see what was left of what was once such a glorious city.

The Forum in Pompeii

Pompeii Amphitheater

The next day we took a train to Rome where we spent six nights. We saw St. Peter’s Basilica, wandered around Vatican City, and threw coins into Trevi Fountain on our first full day. The next day was Christmas Day during which we chose to mostly stay in and watch classic Christmas movies like “Elf” and “Die Hard.”

St. Peter's Basilica

On the weekend we took a train for a day trip to Florence on a whim. There we saw the David (Michaelangelo’s masterpiece Renaissance sculpture of a man that is over five meters tall), the Duomo (part of a beautiful cathedral), Ponte Vecchio (a bridge lined with jewelry shops), and the Galileo Museum.

Ponte Vecchio

Inside il Duomo

Back in Rome we took a tour of the Coliseum early the next day. The tour allowed us to go on the stage, into the dungeon underneath, and up to the highest spot currently open in the structure. Our guide shared a lot of interesting information and clarified some false ideas that many of us may have come with, like the actual amount of violence and the use of the so-called “dungeons.”

The Colosseum

Inside the Colosseum from the top

On our last full day we got skip-the-line tickets for the Vatican and were very glad when we walked by the huge line shortly after they opened. We walked through on our own instead of opting for a tour but we were glad to go at our own pace. The decoration was unbelievably intricate and extravagant throughout, especially in the Sistine Chapel.

The next day we flew to Dublin, Ireland. We got to our hostel and our 10-bed dorm around 2 a.m. and took our time waking up and making our way around the city the next day. We took a walking tour to hit a lot of the major points since we realized that we didn’t really know what was there.

Dublin Castle, an architectural mishmash

Ha'penny over the River Liffey

On New Years Eve we took a day trip to Cobh, Cork, and Blarney. We walked the grounds of Blarney Castle but only after kissing the Blarney Stone, which is said to give the gift of gab for the next seven years. Results have yet to be proven.

Blarney Castle

Kissing the Blarney Stone

We spent our last morning in Dublin at the National Leprechaun Museum, learning a bit about the tricky creatures. Then we flew to our last European stop: London. With only two full days in London, our excursions involved early mornings and tired feet in the evenings. My friend had spent her semester in London and knew the lay of the land so she served as my guide.

Peeking out of a storybook at the National Leprechaun Museum, Dublin

During our first day we through Reagent’s Park, up Primrose Hill, and to Camden Market for lunch. Then we moved on to see Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, and Westminster Abbey. We took a ride on the London Eye Ferris wheel to get a spectacular view of the city as night fell.

Buckingham Palace

Big Ben and Parliament

The London Eye

View from near the top of the London Eye

The second day we got our luggage from storage back to the hostel and then went to the British Museum to see the Rosetta Stone and remnants from the Parthenon. Then we went to the London Bridge and walked across it to go through the Tower of London, which is more of a fortress than a tower. There we saw the crown jewels, armor over the years, and more.

The Rosetta Stone

Remnants of the Parthenon in the British Museum

London Bridge

The Great Return

Coming home was surreal. When we landed and met our parents at the airport, it felt like we had never left. It felt good to be home, even though I missed the incredible places I’ve been and the constant activity. It’s been good to relax for a short time before returning to school.

My experiences over the last four months feel a little dreamlike because they were so incredible. I was able to go places and see and do things I could only ever imagine before. It was the adventure of a lifetime and it has inspired me to do so much more (when I have money again).

I want nothing more than to share my experiences with anyone who wants to hear them and to encourage others to take their own journeys. From mine I learned more confidence and I solidified who I am and what I want from my life. I hope others can do the same. No matter how big or small the adventure, there’s a lot to learn out there.

Four Languages, Countless Christmas Markets

Temperatures are down and I’m in a winter wonderland dotted with Christmas markets! Here in Budapest, there is an abundance of vendors lining streets and squares in their wooden booths throughout the city. This weekend I left the Hungarian language behind for Barcelona, Spain – though the flight there and back was conducted in English, Hungarian, Spanish, and Catalan.

Christmas Season in Budapest

It already looks a lot like Christmas in Budapest: main streets and buildings are lit up with twinkle lights, streets and squares have turned into villages of vendors, and a #2 tram is wrapped in lights. I’m in my glory!

Here are some of the many markets around the city:

Advent Feast at the Basilica

This market is located directly in front of St. Stephen’s Basilica and features an ice-skating rink with a large decorated tree in the center and several food trucks down the road opposite. In the evenings, there is a short video version of The Nutcracker projected onto the face of the basilica (as you can see in last week’s post).

 

Fashion Street Advent

High-end stores on Fashion Street face the wooden booths that line the center of the pedestrian road. Large lights are suspended in the air above in the shape of gift boxes, umbrellas, purses, and shoes.

Budapest Christmas Fair at Vörösmarty Tér

At the end of the touristic street of Váci Utca you will find a Christmas haven in Vörösmarty Tér. It’s considered one of the prettiest markets of the city and hosts specifically chosen vendors of high-quality handmade products.

Four Seasons Christmas Market

The Christmas market of the Four Seasons Gresham Palace is a window-shopping experience for many, selling mostly luxury-type products. Still, the hall dedicated to the market is beautifully decorated and indoor, serving as a good place to warm your fingers between hot apple ciders and mulled wines on cold winter evenings.

Nativity in Barcelona

We got lost trying to follow a map to a Christmas market, but we found it shortly after. It reminded me of Spain’s heavy Catholicism. About 90% of the market stalls only sold nativity scenes and related items. There were also several small nativity “towns” throughout the city for people to walk through.

We stumbled upon one of these whilst walking through some Roman ruins. We followed the crowds and ended up in the central courtyard of the Cathedral de la Santa Creu i Santa Eulàlia where geese wandered as people walked through the little village in the center.

We didn’t keep only to Christmas-related events and places. We visited the famous Roman Catholic church, La Sagrada Familia, with its incredible details and amazing acoustics. The sun shined through the massive stained-glass windows so that the walls appeared to be painted with color.

 

In the afternoon we searched for a late lunch and ended up at Melic del Gòtic, a traditional charcoal grill restaurant. When the waiter brought our breadbasket he asked, “Do you know how to do it?” We looked at each other wondering what he was talking about and gave a unanimous “No.” He then taught us how to properly prepare the bread with garlic, tomatoes, olive oil, and salt for a delicious outcome.

The grilled corn on the cob was delightful and the (white) house wine was phenomenal. The meal took longer than we anticipated because of the laid-back, slower-paced culture, but it was worth it. It was also very reasonably priced!

From there we went to the Gaudi House in Park Güell, where the architect of La Sagrada Familia lived. Our visit there was brief because arrived late and the building had to close. We took our time leaving through the park and stopped to take in the night view of Barcelona below.

On Sunday two of us were able to appease some nostalgia by going to the beach. We walked past the Arc de Triomf and through the Parc de la Ciutadella to reach the Spanish coast and touch the sand for the first time in three months.

Most study abroad students will be heading back to the U.S. in the next two weeks, but I look forward to travelling with my best friend for a couple weeks after the semester. Time will fly, as it already has, and soon it will be January and I will be standing on the Maine coast again (but maybe with a few more layers of clothing).

Eating Turkey and Playing Tourist

This week has been full of exciting things to be thankful for. Despite living in Hungary, the CIEE group and I were able to celebrate Thanksgiving with a fantastic feast. On the same day, my parents landed on Budapest soil for a five-day visit as the first leg of their vacation. I’ve spent most of the past three days feeling a joyful combination of spoiled and stuffed!

Buda Castle and Széchenyi Chain Bridge

Turkey Day

Thanksgiving is an odd holiday to celebrate outside of America, mostly because it doesn’t exist anywhere else... That didn’t stop us from having a celebratory feast in Budapest!

We (unfortunately) had classes on Thanksgiving Day, but several of us spent the hours between those and dinner cooking up our home specialties. I made Oreo balls the night before so that I could use the time to meet my parents who had reached their rented apartment while I was in class.

There where lots of hugs and “I missed you’s” before the “where can we eat?” slipped out so I brought my parents to Púder Bárszínház (my favorite restaurant on Ráday Utca, where I live) for dinner. I couldn’t resist getting my own meal (I did say it is my favorite restaurant). Two hours later I headed back to the dorm for round two of eating.

CIEE hosted the Thanksgiving dinner in the dorm kitchen. They brought the turkey and several side dishes in addition to those made by students. People in the program made sweet potatoes, macaroni and cheese, salad, wild rice casserole, stuffing, and more, as they would have back home. There was homemade pálinka (Hungarian hard liquor), several bottles of wine, and lots of talking and laughing.

Everything got rave reviews and people loved the Oreo balls (not to brag or anything). We ate until we could barely move but there were still a lot of leftovers remaining. There was a whole other turkey we didn’t even touch! CIEE comes prepared.

Tourist for a Weekend

I’ve had the enormous pleasure over the past few days of being able to share this beautiful city with my parents. My sister and her husband are having a second wedding ceremony in India (where he is originally from) later this week and so, once Mom and Dad decided to attend, it wasn’t a far stretch to stop in Budapest to see me on the way.

Having them here has allowed me to revert a little to tourist status. We’ve gone places new and known to me: Spinoza Café, St. István Bazilika (St. Stephen’s Basilica), Café Gerbaud, Buda Castle, Halászbástya (Fisherman’s Bastion), and Christmas markets all over the city.

Four Seasons Gresham Palace

Gresham Palace Christmas Market

Gresham Palace Christmas Market

We’ve had a ton of delicious meals and plenty of mulled wine to keep us warm outside. We even accidentally found out that St. Stephen’s Basilica has a short version of The Nutcracker projected onto the front in the evenings. It reminded me of the Christmas “show” in the Comcast Center in Philadelphia – except on the face of the biggest basilica in Budapest instead of on cleverly disguised screens in a lobby area.

St. Stephen's Basilica Christmas Market

St. Stephen's Basilica Christmas Market

The Nutcracker on St. Stephen's Basilica

Rain and snow could not affect how thrilled I am to have been able to share such an incredible place and my experiences with my parents – and there were both! It was nice to take pictures as if I were here only for the weekend and would never see these people again.

Fisherman's Bastion

It was even better to be able to act as a guide and to know where I was and how to get from point A to point B in the easiest manner. I realized how much I take my sense of direction for granted because Mom and Dad had no idea where we were most of the time.

It was best to be able to hug my mom and dad for the weekend. (My debit card and) I will have a hard time saying goodbye again, but I’m thankful to have the opportunity.

Dubbed

I have never seen a dubbed movie. Those that I have seen in foreign languages have been with subtitles. It’s rare that, as an English speaker, I should need any sort of translation to experience a culture and its entertainment. I often forget how fortunate I am to speak English.

This weekend my roommate and I found a theater showing the new “Hunger Games: Mockingjay – Part 2” in English with Hungarian subtitles (the closest to just English that’s offered). The movie was great and tears were shed. The trailers beforehand were an odd mix of the two languages but the strangest thing was seeing Samuel L. Jackson dubbed. The most difficult part of the whole thing was ignoring the subtitles but eventually even that was easy.

As an American, I’m surrounded by familiarity wherever I go. Even in Budapest there are Starbucks, McDonald’s, KFCs, Pizza Huts, and an absurd amount of Burger Kings. There are also a lot of European brands that are well known in the U.S. including H&M (there are two in just one mall and several more throughout the city), IKEA, and Zara.

This weekend I found myself in a lot of touristy areas of the city where I noticed a strong concentration of English speakers. These areas are filled with shops and restaurants with English-speaking employees, making it easier for international travelers since it’s the most common, well, common language.

Saturday I got breakfast not too far from my dorm at Zoska where, despite being in an alley between tram stops, is a very popular spot with English speakers. I went to H&M (yes, it has the same things as in the U.S. but I needed socks) and walked back to the dorm via Váci Utca, a very popular tourist street lined with shops and vendors where English is the language you hear most from those around you.

Today we went to Café Gerbeaud, home of the Gerbeaud chocolate cake and one of the most traditional coffeehouses in Europe, for dessert. Of course we got the Gerbeaud cake and some tea – both were amazing. Between bites of the glorious cake I noticed that every server that came to our table immediately began speaking English before they ever heard us, probably because it was in a touristy area on the edge of a Christmas market.

Gerbeaud Cake

We visited the Christmas markets in Vörösmarty Tér and on Fashion Street where we had no problem asking vendors how much the citrus wreath or the (insanely fuzzy) slippers cost. Some even struck up a conversation, asking where we were from, why we were here. It was simple and something that could just as easily happen in the U.S.

Vörösmarty Tér

Fashion Street

The citrus wreath currently bringing Christmas cheer and wonderful scents to our dorm room.

One of the first major miscommunications I’ve encountered occurred Saturday night. There was a mulled wine festival on the street I live on and each business participating was marked with a mannequin. We went to Rombusz, a small square down the road with a food truck.

My roommate and I decided to order together for the sake of ease and intended to get two cups of one deciliter each (since that’s how it’s measured and priced). There was some confusion between our limited Hungarian and the vendors’ lack of any English and we ended up getting one cup of two deciliters and paying double to get a second one. Thankfully, it was still only approximately $1.00 each (and pretty good!).

The situation was minor and turned out all right but it was a reminder of how frustrating a language barrier can be. We had tried to explain the confusion but to no avail. As it was being sorted a bilingual girl offered to help. We had already handed over the extra 280 HUF, but it was a kind gesture that I’ve found to be fairly common.

Language is something that’s so easy to take for granted, especially for English speakers. I have the privilege of seeing movies and talking to others in my native tongue simply because it’s the most commonly shared language. Sometimes it seems as though the whole world is dubbed for our convenience.

Still, there is one thing most shopkeepers, store clerks, and waiters like to hear in their own language: thank you//köszönöm szépen.