Eating Turkey and Playing Tourist

This week has been full of exciting things to be thankful for. Despite living in Hungary, the CIEE group and I were able to celebrate Thanksgiving with a fantastic feast. On the same day, my parents landed on Budapest soil for a five-day visit as the first leg of their vacation. I’ve spent most of the past three days feeling a joyful combination of spoiled and stuffed!

Buda Castle and Széchenyi Chain Bridge

Turkey Day

Thanksgiving is an odd holiday to celebrate outside of America, mostly because it doesn’t exist anywhere else... That didn’t stop us from having a celebratory feast in Budapest!

We (unfortunately) had classes on Thanksgiving Day, but several of us spent the hours between those and dinner cooking up our home specialties. I made Oreo balls the night before so that I could use the time to meet my parents who had reached their rented apartment while I was in class.

There where lots of hugs and “I missed you’s” before the “where can we eat?” slipped out so I brought my parents to Púder Bárszínház (my favorite restaurant on Ráday Utca, where I live) for dinner. I couldn’t resist getting my own meal (I did say it is my favorite restaurant). Two hours later I headed back to the dorm for round two of eating.

CIEE hosted the Thanksgiving dinner in the dorm kitchen. They brought the turkey and several side dishes in addition to those made by students. People in the program made sweet potatoes, macaroni and cheese, salad, wild rice casserole, stuffing, and more, as they would have back home. There was homemade pálinka (Hungarian hard liquor), several bottles of wine, and lots of talking and laughing.

Everything got rave reviews and people loved the Oreo balls (not to brag or anything). We ate until we could barely move but there were still a lot of leftovers remaining. There was a whole other turkey we didn’t even touch! CIEE comes prepared.

Tourist for a Weekend

I’ve had the enormous pleasure over the past few days of being able to share this beautiful city with my parents. My sister and her husband are having a second wedding ceremony in India (where he is originally from) later this week and so, once Mom and Dad decided to attend, it wasn’t a far stretch to stop in Budapest to see me on the way.

Having them here has allowed me to revert a little to tourist status. We’ve gone places new and known to me: Spinoza Café, St. István Bazilika (St. Stephen’s Basilica), Café Gerbaud, Buda Castle, Halászbástya (Fisherman’s Bastion), and Christmas markets all over the city.

Four Seasons Gresham Palace

Gresham Palace Christmas Market

Gresham Palace Christmas Market

We’ve had a ton of delicious meals and plenty of mulled wine to keep us warm outside. We even accidentally found out that St. Stephen’s Basilica has a short version of The Nutcracker projected onto the front in the evenings. It reminded me of the Christmas “show” in the Comcast Center in Philadelphia – except on the face of the biggest basilica in Budapest instead of on cleverly disguised screens in a lobby area.

St. Stephen's Basilica Christmas Market

St. Stephen's Basilica Christmas Market

The Nutcracker on St. Stephen's Basilica

Rain and snow could not affect how thrilled I am to have been able to share such an incredible place and my experiences with my parents – and there were both! It was nice to take pictures as if I were here only for the weekend and would never see these people again.

Fisherman's Bastion

It was even better to be able to act as a guide and to know where I was and how to get from point A to point B in the easiest manner. I realized how much I take my sense of direction for granted because Mom and Dad had no idea where we were most of the time.

It was best to be able to hug my mom and dad for the weekend. (My debit card and) I will have a hard time saying goodbye again, but I’m thankful to have the opportunity.

Dubbed

I have never seen a dubbed movie. Those that I have seen in foreign languages have been with subtitles. It’s rare that, as an English speaker, I should need any sort of translation to experience a culture and its entertainment. I often forget how fortunate I am to speak English.

This weekend my roommate and I found a theater showing the new “Hunger Games: Mockingjay – Part 2” in English with Hungarian subtitles (the closest to just English that’s offered). The movie was great and tears were shed. The trailers beforehand were an odd mix of the two languages but the strangest thing was seeing Samuel L. Jackson dubbed. The most difficult part of the whole thing was ignoring the subtitles but eventually even that was easy.

As an American, I’m surrounded by familiarity wherever I go. Even in Budapest there are Starbucks, McDonald’s, KFCs, Pizza Huts, and an absurd amount of Burger Kings. There are also a lot of European brands that are well known in the U.S. including H&M (there are two in just one mall and several more throughout the city), IKEA, and Zara.

This weekend I found myself in a lot of touristy areas of the city where I noticed a strong concentration of English speakers. These areas are filled with shops and restaurants with English-speaking employees, making it easier for international travelers since it’s the most common, well, common language.

Saturday I got breakfast not too far from my dorm at Zoska where, despite being in an alley between tram stops, is a very popular spot with English speakers. I went to H&M (yes, it has the same things as in the U.S. but I needed socks) and walked back to the dorm via Váci Utca, a very popular tourist street lined with shops and vendors where English is the language you hear most from those around you.

Today we went to Café Gerbeaud, home of the Gerbeaud chocolate cake and one of the most traditional coffeehouses in Europe, for dessert. Of course we got the Gerbeaud cake and some tea – both were amazing. Between bites of the glorious cake I noticed that every server that came to our table immediately began speaking English before they ever heard us, probably because it was in a touristy area on the edge of a Christmas market.

Gerbeaud Cake

We visited the Christmas markets in Vörösmarty Tér and on Fashion Street where we had no problem asking vendors how much the citrus wreath or the (insanely fuzzy) slippers cost. Some even struck up a conversation, asking where we were from, why we were here. It was simple and something that could just as easily happen in the U.S.

Vörösmarty Tér

Fashion Street

The citrus wreath currently bringing Christmas cheer and wonderful scents to our dorm room.

One of the first major miscommunications I’ve encountered occurred Saturday night. There was a mulled wine festival on the street I live on and each business participating was marked with a mannequin. We went to Rombusz, a small square down the road with a food truck.

My roommate and I decided to order together for the sake of ease and intended to get two cups of one deciliter each (since that’s how it’s measured and priced). There was some confusion between our limited Hungarian and the vendors’ lack of any English and we ended up getting one cup of two deciliters and paying double to get a second one. Thankfully, it was still only approximately $1.00 each (and pretty good!).

The situation was minor and turned out all right but it was a reminder of how frustrating a language barrier can be. We had tried to explain the confusion but to no avail. As it was being sorted a bilingual girl offered to help. We had already handed over the extra 280 HUF, but it was a kind gesture that I’ve found to be fairly common.

Language is something that’s so easy to take for granted, especially for English speakers. I have the privilege of seeing movies and talking to others in my native tongue simply because it’s the most commonly shared language. Sometimes it seems as though the whole world is dubbed for our convenience.

Still, there is one thing most shopkeepers, store clerks, and waiters like to hear in their own language: thank you//köszönöm szépen.

Crossing Bridges

There's a proverb that became all too relevant to me in this bittersweet weekend: "We'll cross that bridge when we get to it."

I had the privilege of crossing bridges over canals in Amsterdam with two of my closest friends this weekend. But this joy was interrupted when we had to cross a different kind of bridge: making decisions in light of tragic events that were far too close for comfort.

Amsterdam: Bridges Adorned with Bicycles


I happened to have the same Thursday night flight as two others in my program and so we kept each other entertained on the way to and while waiting in the Budapest airport. It was nice to have the company and someone to hold my bag while I got my shoes off to go through security - even though I forgot to take off my jewelry.

My first friend landed in Amsterdam shortly after me and we met at the end of the hike it took to get to the arrivals hall (that airport is HUGE). We took a bus to the hotel, got off at the wrong stop and, once we became too skeptical of the directions I got from Google Maps, stopped in a gym to ask the reception for directions. It was another 20 minutes walking but (as we constantly reminded ourselves) we were in Amsterdam - where canals make navigation easier and excessive bicyclists make crossing streets scarier.

Street-sized hallway in the Amsterdam airport

Amsterdam sign by the Van Gogh museum - nearly empty in the rain

Street and bridge completely covered by bicycles. They even had their own parking lots!

More bicycles in front of the palace by the Red Light district

We finally found and checked into our hotel - a Best Western half an hour out of the city - before venturing back out for dinner. We decided to stay in the area so we didn't have to attempt navigating night buses. We ended up at a restaurant down the road where only one waiter seemed to speak English and the menu was only in Turkish and Dutch, but the food was good and we got two mugs each of Turkish tea on the house.

The next day we met our other friend at the train station and found a café for breakfast in the city center. It was delicious and they had two cats! That wandered freely and received attention from whomever they pleased. We intended to go from there to the Anne Frank House but thought the line was too long (this will come back later) so we went to the Van Gogh museum instead and followed that with a tour of the Heineken Factory.

Heineken Factory

Heineken Factory

Cat in the cafê

Saturday was emotionally sobering. We woke to the full news of the attacks and to friends, family, and school officials confirming our locations and well-being. My friends had to confirm they had safe travel back to their cities and one of them had to completely change her plans to avoid flying in to Paris. It was stressful, it was frustrating, and it was sad.

For comfort we returned to the café with the cats for breakfast. We went to the Anne Frank House - only this time the line was three times as long and we waited (freezing) for two hours. But it was incredibly worth it.

We saw the bookcase that hid the doorway to the secret apartment where she and seven others lived in hiding. I learned things I didn't know about the holocaust, about Anne Frank, and about her diary itself. For example, she rewrote most of it with the hope and intention of it being published after the war.

Canal by the Anne Frank House

Once we let it all sink in and got our thoughts together again, we walked to the Red Light district to see what all the hype is about. It's exactly what you'd expect from the Red Light district.

Christmas decorations in the Red Light district

The rest of the night was spent back at the hotel pre-packing and watching Netflix before calling it an early night - one of my friends had to leave shortly after four in the morning because of adjusting her flights. It was fun as always to see them, especially in a pretty European city, but it did not go as planned.

Bridges of Nightmares 


This weekend was the closest I've gotten to being ready to go home. In the wake of tragedy I missed the comfort of home, of my native tongue, of distance, and of being able to go in to the next room to hug my friends and family.

I'm mad.

I'm mad that we had to cross this bridge. I'm mad that one of my friends had to deal with the stress of finding the safest way back to her study abroad city in Western France. I'm mad that we cancelled our trip to Paris next weekend out of safety - out of fear.

I'm mad that nearly every conversation I've heard in English since has been related to the attacks; that this is what preoccupies minds. I'm mad that it is a conversation that has to be had. Most of all, I'm mad that we live in a world where such a tragedy, such a violation, may occur at all.

I'm also lucky.

I'm lucky that we happened to schedule our Paris trip for the following weekend. I'm lucky that my biggest loss in all this is $80 and a few extra days with my friends who I will see again in a couple months regardless.

I'm lucky to attend a school that was proactive and sure to check on the locations and well-being of all students currently abroad and to update students and families frequently. I'm lucky to live in an age where technology makes that so easy; even Facebook activated a safety feature that allowed people to check in and check for others. I'm lucky not to have lost anyone in the attacks.

But many people were not as lucky. My thoughts and prayers are with those whose lives were lost as well as with those who remain but will never forget. I hope that they can recover and move on.

In the words of Anne Frank: “... in spite of everything, I still believe that people are really good at heart.”

 

The Art of Getting Lost and Being Alone

A Plan-less Itinerary

This weekend I decided to take a solo trip to Vienna, Austria. This was the first I’ve travelled during the semester outside of trips coordinated by CIEE and my first trip completely alone.

I bought bus tickets at 2 a.m. two days before I was set to leave and accommodations later that same day.

I chose to book an AirBNB based on several of my friends’ positive experiences with it. I did my research to find a private room in an apartment with a reputable host not far from the inner city. I communicated with my host before making my reservation, as I recommend to all considering AirBNB.

There was nothing on my to-do list for this trip. Even when I was waking up in Vienna, I didn’t have a plan. It was unlike anything I’d done before, and it was one of the best experiences I have ever had.

One of the first places I found - a park by the Habsburg Palace

Being Lost and Alone (and Incredibly Happy)

The best part of traveling solo? There were no expectations. I put no pressure on myself. Instead of focusing on experiencing everything I could fit in, I focused on taking my time and relaxing, because that’s what I wanted out of the trip.

B Vocal - a pop-comedy a cappella group, one of many a cappella groups performing Friday on balconies to start a month-long festival. I heard them sing "The Circle of Life" in German and a 60-second version of "Les Misérables."

A street made for window-shopping

The first day, I slept in as late as I could and only walked around for a few hours before going back to the apartment to Skype with friends from home and watch Netflix until I went to bed. It gave me a taste of the city, so I wanted to get an earlier start to explore on Saturday.

But you can’t always get what you want and I left the apartment shortly before 11 a.m. That morning I went on the hunt for a specific café, got very lost, and ended up at a different café. There I met an older couple from New Jersey who were in Europe for vacation and who thought I was Viennese until I started talking to them (so I must have been doing something right).

I actually don’t know any German at all and I even found myself missing the Hungarian language. Most times I heard English speakers in Vienna, they were searching (in vain) for signs in English so they could figure out where they were. I was no help, seeing as I also didn’t know where I was at the time.

Austrian Parliament - I missed this building completely the first time I passed it.

Once I ate, I walked around for hours, going wherever I thought looked pretty. I let myself get lost until I couldn’t anymore. After a while, I found that I’d turn a new or unfamiliar corner and suddenly know exactly where I was and another piece of the puzzle fell into place.

I found the Sisi Museum and walked through the Imperial Apartments, home of Empress Elisabeth (aka “Sisi”) and Franz Joseph I of the Habsburg Empire. The apartments shed light on the life and assassination of the empress. Pictures were restricted but I got a couple small souvenirs from the (moderately overpriced) gift shop.

Sisi Museum and Imperial Apartments

Habsburg Palace

The weather was uncharacteristically warm for November and I got outdoor seating at a busy café to enjoy apple strudel and mélange (coffee with milk typical for Vienna). For dinner I found an Italian restaurant on one of the many simple side streets (I simply can’t resist the possibility of a good Italian meal - and it was good!).

Mélange and apple strudel from Aida

I let myself get distracted on the way back to the apartment and followed the light and noise from a small shopping corridor. There I found Xocolat, a chocolate store where I spent way too much money on treats for family and myself. Okay - mostly myself.

My final day was wrapped up with sunshine and temps in the mid-60s (Fahrenheit). I went to a café around the corner from the too-busy café I originally had my sights set on. It had a limited and mostly elderly crowd but it felt homey and the waitress was one of the kindest I encountered in Vienna. I even ran into the couple from New Jersey there that I had met the previous morning!

Vienna may be a big city – the Imperial City –, but it’s in a small world, the perfect size to lose and find yourself again. Still, coming home, even to a temporary home, with familiar terrain and language (yes, even Hungarian is more comforting to me than German now) will never get old!

Back of Habsburg Palace on Sunday

Being Hungry in Hungary

One of the biggest changes I’ve experienced over the last two months in Budapest has been my eating habits. “Picky eater” is an understatement when describing my diet pre-college. You would likely be shocked if I told you how I limited myself, mostly out of stubbornness.

College helped me to expand my food repertoire some but I still had a long way to go. I didn’t have the push that I needed to really make a difference beyond an isolated meal here and there. That is, until now.

Perhaps it’s being in a foreign country, respecting the culture, or finally caving in to curiosity. Whatever it is, it’s working. Since leaving for my semester abroad I’ve eaten pork, salmon, soups, and more vegetables than ever before.

Salmon breakfast at Centrál Kávéház

The Hungarian diet is not easy for those who don’t eat meat, but it is livable. I had never eaten pork before I came here (and I still don’t plan to eat it more than necessary), but the few times I have had it here I’ve actually enjoyed it! Still, the vegetarians in my group always have alternative options and get by fairly easily.

I’ve had an amazing bagel with smoked salmon, goat cheese, and leafy greens at Café Alibi; fantastic pumpkin cream soup from Leves (which also happens to be the Hungarian word for soup, pronounced “leh-vesh”); and soups, pork, and homemade doughnuts (Hungarian: fánk) in Transylvania.

I have easily eaten more vegetables in the past month than over the last five years combined. Despite difficulties with the stove burners in the common kitchen, I enjoy cooking for myself on occasion and will add a handful of veggies to most of my meals. I’ve grown mildly attached to peppers – especially the white paprika (the vegetable version of the red spice)! Only to be expected in a country known for its production of paprika.

The university dorm is on a street lined with restaurants, among which are some of my favorites so far. Like most cities, I could easily eat out every day that I’m here and not repeat locations.

Some of my favorite simple to-go options include: Wokzilla (Asian food for sit-down or to-go), several gyro places, Ráday Fánkterápia (American donut shop), and Budapest Bagels (which is exactly what it sounds like). My favorite gelato option by far is Gelarto Rosa near St. Stephen’s Basilica (and yes, that is the correct spelling of Gelarto Rosa). What’s better than delicious gelato in the shape of a rose??

For sit-down places, one of my absolute favorites is Púder Bársínház and their chicken dish served with a wheel of goat cheese on top and white rice on the side. I eat there about once a week on average...

Chicken dish at Púder Bárszínház

I’ve also (finally) found a couple of decent Italian restaurants: TG Italiano and Pizza Eataliano are a couple of my reasonably priced favorites so far. I have yet to experience the renowned Comme Chez Soi or the Zeller Bistro, but I’ve heard from others in my group that they are both musts while we’re here.

Of course, there are plenty of traditional Hungarian dishes! Honestly, I’ve only had a few: stuffed cabbage and goulash in Transylvania; langos in Szentendre and in the Budapest Central Markethall; and csirke paprikas (chicken paprikash) from... well, most restaurants.

Langos from Budapest Central Markethall

Dessert is a whole other topic but my favorites restaurants for them so far include: Ruszwurm Cukrászda, Nándori Cukrászda, Café Vian (especially their cocoa crepe with apple cinnamon filling), and Centrál Kávéház. All are great places to satisfy a sweet tooth.

Desserts and hot chocolates at Ruszwurm Cukrászda

Apple pie from Café Vian

Cocoa crepe with apple cinnamon filling from Café Vian

Opera cake and a latte from Centrál Kávéház

Whatever the meal or time of day, there are a ton of food options all over the city. One thing’s for sure: you will not go hungry in Hungary.