Birthday in Budapest

I am the oldest of my friends and the only one to celebrate my birthday while abroad. And it couldn’t have been better! My 21st birthday was Friday, October 23, and I was fortunate to have two of my closest friends from home visit me this weekend to celebrate. Since we’re in Europe, they weren’t excluded from toasting with me in celebration and it was fun to introduce them to some good Hungarian wine!

October 23 also happens to be the 1956 Revolution Memorial Day in Hungary (as I mentioned in a previous post). Some museums were free for the day, though we didn’t go to any, while many other places were closed. Fortunately, many places were still open regardless.

My roommate, our friends, and I started at Central Café (one of my favorite dessert places) for breakfast before walking toward Parliament to see the memorial decorations.

Hungarian Parliament

The clouds cleared away and we walked to the Buda side of the city to see some areas we hadn’t yet viewed with blue skies, and then got desserts at the famous Ruszwurm Cukrászda to share.

Fisherman's Bastion

Ruszwurm desserts

The evening brought us to the area near the famous St. Stephen’s Basilica and we decided on an Italian restaurant a block away for dinner. I can finally say that I have found good Italian food in Hungary. From there we headed to the Sziget Eye (Europe’s largest travelling Ferris wheel) in Erzsébet Square. We got a spectacular view of the city from the top with the streets and monuments lit up in the night!

Sziget Eye

From Sziget Eye

To wrap up my 21st, we stopped at Gelarto Rosa for lovely gelato in the shape of a rose before heading back to my dorm for a night of Netflix, wine, and plenty of talking. And that was just Friday.

Gelarto Rosa

My second friend got to Budapest on Saturday, creating Part II to the birthday celebrations. Once we got her from the airport, we had a quick late-lunch/early-dinner at Púder Bárszínház (one of my favorite restaurants in the city) before going to the Hungarian State Opera House to see Swan Lake (one of my birthday presents from one of my best friends).

Hungarian State Opera House

Hungarian State Opera House

Our opera box

I had never seen an opera or ballet before and went into it knowing it was a four-hour ballet and prepared to be extremely confused. We ended up with amazing seats in a box on the first floor and, while we had a little difficulty following (and staying awake) for the first half, we adored the second half. We felt very classy for the night.

We followed the ballet with drinks and amazing desserts at Café Vian, not far from the opera house, where we stayed and talked until just after midnight. It was good that we were not far from my dorm because we ended up watching the last tram of the night drive away, so we walked the rest of the way back. Thankfully, it was a beautiful night to end a fantastic two-part birthday celebration with two incredible friends in an amazing city!

Let it Rain, Let it Rain, Let it Rain

Growing up in New England, I have certain expectations from nature during any given season. I’m used to being surrounded by trees and I’m used to those trees displaying brilliant fall foliage before becoming bare. I’m used to colder weather and the possibility of a mid-October dusting of snow.

Hungary, however, does not care about my expectations.

Living in a large city is the first limit to my interaction with nature. Instead of trees, buildings surround me in Pest. These building are examples of some of the most breathtaking architecture I’ve ever experienced firsthand and each with its own story. They breathe life in a different way, but they’re also constant, unchanging.

Pest

Simply walking across a bridge to Buda brings you to a whole different world and you can feel the change in the atmosphere. While still being littered with small shops and restaurants, it’s much more residential and home to most of Budapest’s natural aspects. When I need it, it’s a breath of fresh air!

Just yesterday I walked to Buda on a whim to climb Gellért Hill. The hill is an odd combination of paved pathways and hiker-made dirt paths. The paved paths create a sort of maze of possibilities to get to and from the top on either side. Admittedly, I got a little lost on the way down...

Buda (Gellért Hill on the left, Buda Castle on the right)

It’s nice to have some access to nature where you can get a little lost and forget that you’re in a massive city. Still, this is a far cry from New England autumn (though I may be slightly biased). Here the trees that are not still green are a pale yellow or they skipped right to a crunchy brown.

I was told before coming here that Hungary has more of a rainy season than a winter before January. This should have been my queue to prepare for such, but instead I thought I’d see for myself first. Now I’m not sure why I doubted that.

Rain on Széchenyi Chain Bridge

It’s been raining the majority of this past week, a mix of sprinkles and downpours when we least expect with a touch of wind. In the evenings I find it beautiful with the glistening city lights, but I’d probably enjoy it even more if I had a raincoat (or any coat with a hood for that matter). I just got an umbrella a couple weeks ago and it’s already been put to good use – when I remember to bring it with me, that is.



It’s not what I’m used to but it is more-or-less what I expected for this time of year. I was mentally prepared for different, even if I wasn’t exactly materially prepared to be in it... And I appreciate every drop of rain that falls off my nose when I don’t have my umbrella.

Not Dracula’s Transylvania

This weekend’s CIEE excursion was to the town of Kalotaszentkirály in the region of Transylvania, Romania for three nights. Several students know people who have participated in this program previously who would tell us that it was a very rural village and the trip was tough and exhausting but that we absolutely had to go. And they were right (even if we didn’t get to see Dracula’s castle)!

We got up before the sun on Thursday morning to be at the bus for 6:30 a.m. and prepared for a long journey. The stop at the Romanian border was pleasantly quick considering they had to individually register 26 of us and we were not complaining. From there it was another hour to the Transylvania border.

Once we reached our intended region, we stopped at the Körösfeketetó Fair, the biggest and most famous weeklong fair of the Transylvania region. It was essentially set up like a flea market with a mix of traditional items, authentic antiques, clothes and shoes, and odds and ends. A rain shower surprised us and we hurried us back to the bus for the final leg of the trip as everyone finished shopping.

The village of Kalotaszentkirály was far more modernized than we were led to believe, but it was definitely more rural and closer to the vision many of us had of “Eastern Europe” than what we have found in Hungary. The Transylvania region was a part of Hungary until the Treaty of Trianon in 1920 so, despite being in Romania, most people we encountered spoke Hungarian.

We split into groups to stay with host families in the village, most of whom spoke only Hungarian. It was the ultimate test of what we’ve learned in our language class so far. The host families were incredibly hospitable and we will all miss the home-cooked meals we were treated to throughout the weekend!

Friday we went to the salt mine in Turda (Salina Turda) where we tasted the salt from the ceiling, yelled into the echo chamber, and rode boats in the lake at the bottom. The mine was active from approximately 1075 until closing in 1932.



It reopened in 1992 as a tourist attraction with a sort of amusement park (which is far more profitable than mining salt by hand). The park includes the boat rides, a Ferris wheel, and games such as mini-golf and billiards.



From the mine we decided that the weather was nice enough to follow through with a hike. We went to a mountain that was more like a cliff and climbed our way up (and back down). It was like walking through seasons – we went from sweating and stripping off as many layers as appropriate at the start to freezing and bundling up in the rain at the top.

The views as we climbed were incredible and it felt amazing to reach the top, even though we were in a cloud and could not see a thing. It was a tough hike that took a little over three hours total but everyone agreed that it was worth the effort and exhaustion despite not having a view from the top!

St. Michael Roman Catholic Church

Reformed Presbyterian Church

Saturday we went to Kolozsvár (Cluj in Romanian) where we visited the Reformed Presbyterian Church that (Hungarian) King Matthias gifted to the city in thanks for their help and hospitality towards his mother when she gave birth to him there in 1443. It was a very plain looking church that contrasted greatly against the very ornate Saint Michael Roman Catholic Church we saw next.

After having a little free time in the city, we went back to the village to witness the invitation to the Harvest Ball hosted by the local youth (around 15 to 20 years old). This consisted of the youth in traditional clothing (boys on horses and girls in a carriage singing) and one boy dressed as a “clown” on a donkey yelling out the invitation. He said if you didn't show "may the legs of your bed break" so obviously we had to go.

Before the ball we went to a small market town where we watched a man make chess pieces. We proceeded to spend as much of our Romanian leu as we could to avoid having to exchange the currency again.

That evening we went to the ball, where we watched the youth perform and we danced the night away – first with folk dancing, then more of a club style. I got to dance the last folk dance with one of the locals (who, thankfully, spoke English so he could actually tell me what to do)! It involved a lot of spinning and it was a blast!

We were supposed to make another stop on our way back to Hungary but the rainy weather made it impossible so we headed straight back to Budapest. We were all sad to say goodbye to our host families (and their cooking) but we are all happy to be back in our own beds. It’s home sweet Hungary!

What We’re “Really” Here For

We were able to meet most of the professors within the program during orientation and one of them pointed out a fact that would come to hinder us in this new environment: Americans tend to be painfully visual learners. We like structure and PowerPoint presentations with clearly labeled lessons.

The European teaching style can be less direct and, while PowerPoints are still used, the professors may go off on more tangents than American students are used to. It all connects and makes sense in the end, but it can make note taking much more complicated – especially when you add in the challenge of deciphering an unfamiliar accent.

Another adjustment for me with classes is the concept of a double class, having two 90-minute sessions of the same class back-to-back so that it meets only once a week, usually to accommodate a professor’s schedule. This is nice because you only have to meet once a week, but it can also be exhausting because of the length and many of these are in the evening.

I strongly recommend stopping at a café on the way to one of these classes to properly caffeinate yourself in preparation. Oh, and bring a snack.

It can also be dangerously easy to procrastinate on assignments for classes when you have a whole week to do them. Trust me, it’s not worth it. A week of time can also mean a week’s worth of homework. Don’t get me wrong, the professors for classes in the program understand that most students are travelling and trying to take in the culture by being out and about rather than stuck inside studying all the time – but this is also still college and there is an expectation that your work will be completed.

Professors can also help with that cultural immersion. Many classes include trips, usually brief around the city in lieu of a lecture, but sometimes day trips as well on Fridays, when most people don’t have classes. These help us learn the city in ways we wouldn’t without a local guide and bring us to amazing places we may never have taken the initiative to see on our own.

When you’re living in a beautiful big city that you previously only hoped to visit, it’s easy to forget the reality of your “vacation” – you still have work to do. But it’s work that helps you understand the place you’re in, it’s history, people, and culture. In the end, isn’t that understanding, that immersion what you really came for?

Halls of Corvinus University of Budapest. Who wouldn't want to go to class here?!

A Revolutionary Weekend

This has been a weekend swirling in solemnity and joy in the form of an excursion organized by Pesti Srác (the Kids of Budapest Foundation). The trip was in commemoration of the youth who fought in the Hungarian Revolution of 1956, the nationwide uprising against Soviet occupation and policies.

Fighting only lasted about three weeks before the Soviet army crushed the rebellion in mid-November. Approximately 3,000 Hungarian civilians were killed. October 23, the day the revolt began, is now solemnly celebrated as a national holiday in Hungary – and joyfully celebrated as my birthday anywhere I am.

Memorial at Kisfogház (Small Prison)

Our excursion began at the statue of Pesti Srác before we visited “Kisfogház” (Small Prison) where many revolutionaries were held until being executed. Kisfogház is still a functioning prison with a separate section for the memorial of the revolution. We also visited a memorial chapel and burial ground in Kiskunmajsa for those who fought.

Kiskunmajsa Memorial Chapel

As part of the overnight trip, we also had plenty of fun in light of these sobering visits. Most of the group, consisting of CIEE and Hungarian students, spent much of Saturday afternoon enjoying the thermal bath offered at our lodging in Lakitelek. The relaxation of the afternoon was in stark contrast to the traditional folk dancing we learned in the evening, providing a good (and unexpected) workout.

Sunday brought us to the National Historical Memorial Park where we were treated to (and tested with) archery with composite bows similar to those used by the original Hungarians. Our shooting skills, on the other hand, were nothing like that of the original Magyars.

There we also watched a horse show demonstrating the use of medieval Hungarian weaponry. Judging by the Hungarians’ laughter, I think it would have been funnier if we had an English translation.

The last event at the park was viewing the cyclorama (panorama painting) “The Arrival of the Magyars.” The painting is 15 meters high and a seamless 120 meters long wrapping a cylindrical room and is one of 40-50 panoramic paintings in the world.

Our final treat was a wine tasting at the Galantai family winery, where we tried four Hungarian wines aside pastries, followed by gelato at Szervánszky Caffee.

It’s safe to say that, despite somber moments and remembrance, everyone was in very high spirits as we boarded the bus for the final leg home – well, our home away from home.

Fe(a)stivals

When going abroad, it’s good to open your mind to try something (or a lot of things) new. I’m talking about food. Between a wine festival at Buda Castle, a renaissance feast hosted by CIEE, and a sweets festival at Buda Castle, this past week has been stuffed to the brim with glorious Hungarian food and wine.

Until last weekend, I didn’t know the first thing about how wine festivals work. My roommate and I were lucky enough to be with my tandem partner (a Hungarian student that CIEE paired us with to help make friends and get acclimated) who translated when a magazine worker offered us discounted tickets. Yes, they were legitimate and much appreciated.

People enjoying wine and the view from the wine festival at Buda Castle

We entered the 24th Annual Budapest Wine Festival with wide eyes and sparkling new glasses that served a dual purpose as souvenirs. The terrace was lined with huts for the more than 200 local and international vendors. Once we were on the terrace of Buda Castle it became a matter of watching and learning.

Eventually we approached a vendor and tried some wine we recognized as distinctively Hungarian, which we then brought over to the cheese vendor who helped us find the perfect pairings. We got the hang of it and found more pairings of wines and desserts before making our way back to the dorm.

Here’s where I remind you what your mother said before you boarded the plane: pace yourself, know your limit, and drink lots of water. It may be fun to be legal, but nobody’s having fun if you don’t make it to the trash bin.

Of course we wore the crowns

As a part of an excursion, our CIEE advisors brought us for a renaissance feast in Visegrád. I typically eat only chicken and turkey for meats so this meal was definitely going out of my comfort zone – and it was awesome.

The three-course meal started with venison soup with potato dumplings. The King Sigismund platter served as the main course and consisted of a larded turkey leg baked in whole, marinated pork ribs, and potatoes with cheese, plus cabbage boiled in apple and red wine. This was followed with the Knight’s Cup for dessert: fruits, sponge cake with cinnamon cream, chocolate sauce, chestnut cream, and a chocolate deer horn. It was all summed up with a nice cup of espresso.

Finally, I got to enjoy Édes Napok (Sweet Days), one of Europe’s biggest chocolate and candy festivals this weekend! With a set-up on the terrace of Buda Castle similar to that of the wine festival, huts lined the sides with chocolate, candy, and caffeine from all over Europe.

We started with a chocolate and fruit cup before getting some mysterious chocolates from the Csokiss stand (Hungarian “csokoládé”/“csoki” = English “chocolate”/“choc.”), where what made them mysterious was that all of the labels were in Hungarian. I still have no idea what they were other than delicious.

Chocolates from Csokiss

An added bonus of the festival was the ability to get a wonderful piece of cake to celebrate my sister’s birthday from the other side of the world. She didn’t get to eat any but I’m sure she appreciated the thought.

There’s always something to celebrate in Hungary, even if it’s just having the opportunity to be here!

Trusting to Learn

Being surrounded by new people speaking a strange language in a different country can be entirely overwhelming. You may feel like you’ve made a mistake or that you’ll never feel comfortable in this unfamiliar place. You can’t read the signs or navigate public transportation and you think you’re the only one.

First of all, trust me when I say that you are not the only one. Second, trust your own ability to learn. Nobody expects you to be a tour guide fluent in the native tongue in the first week. It took me five days to even begin feeling oriented in Budapest and the Hungarian language is a mountain of its own.

Hungarian is no easy language to learn! Thankfully, most businesses have English translations nearby.

I recommend taking a language class to help you feel more comfortable. It won’t be instantaneous but it will help. Try to read signs, if for no other reason than to work on pronunciation and slowly make your way to comprehension. You’ll be exposed to the words constantly for as long as you’re in your chosen destination so there will be plenty of opportunities to practice.

This will also help your ability to navigate. It’s much easier to ask for directions when you can say the name of the place you’re looking for. Having never needed to use public transportation in southern Maine, I’ve found it to be slightly confusing but incredibly convenient and worth exploring.

The tram is only one of many ways to get around Budapest, which also include trolley, bus, and metro.

To get a better idea of how it all works, get a friend or small group to explore, even without a specific location in mind. It can be more comfortable (and safer) to go with someone else and can be good for bonding while everyone’s learning together.

Ráday Utca dormitory

Familiarize yourself with your new surroundings and make it your new (even if temporary) home. In time you’ll find your favorite cafes and pubs and the best place to go for good Wi-Fi.

The university dorm I’m living in for the semester is located on a street littered with places to eat, drink and shop. I found amazing croissants around the corner (Butter Brothers) and a great café down the block (Nándori Cukrászda). With the help of language class, I’m even starting to learn how to pronounce the Hungarian names!

You’ll also learn to balance yourself; accept that this may take time. Maybe you need some alone time or to Skype with Mom and Dad or to go for a walk. Sometimes all it takes is a message to a friend from home. Be careful not to lose yourself in the hustle and bustle of a big change, but don’t rely too much on where you came from.

Sometimes you need to stop checking your hometown news and change the default weather on your phone to where you are now before you can make it your own. An honest talk with a friend-in-the-making may be in order. A few tears might fall, but a lot of laughter may follow.


Try not to let yourself get too overwhelmed. It can be a lot to handle at once but trust that you will learn.

Corvinus University of Budapest, Hungary